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The fashion of this doll represents the Edwardian or "Belle Epoque" style. The Edwardian period is named after
King Edward VII of England--son of Queen Victoria who reigned in the first decade of the twentieth century, from 1910-1910,
while "Belle Epoque" typically refers to the years 1890-1914 (before the First World War brought in a very different
society). The classic shape for women of this period was the "S-shape", which made them very much resemble strutting
birds with bosom thrust up and out, small waist, and a bustle rounding out the backthis look was achieved by corsetry and
the cut of the dress. Unlike during the Victorian period, corsets were less hour-glass shaped, rather they had a long line
in front and the dresses tended to be relatively straight in front from the bosom to the floor, while the skirt swept to a
train in the back, as opposed to the bell-shaped skirts of the mid-19th century. The bustle which rounded the backside and
lent elegant support to the train of the skirt was lower and less pronounced than it had been in the late Victorian period,
in which it was practically shelf-like and was further accentuated by ruffles and bows. Fashion at the turn of the century,
like the Art Nouveau style popular in the decorative arts, tended toward clean, elegant, and curving lines. Other typical
features of turn-of-the-century gowns were high necklines and "leg o'mutton" sleeves, poufed from shoulder to elbow
and either tapering to the wrist, or tight from elbow to wrist; this further accentuated the tiny waist.
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The festive appearance of this gown suggests that its wearer is preparing to partake in Christmas celebrations. After a long
hiatus beginning with the Puritan era, the celebration of Christmas not only made a come-back, but was even intensified starting
in the Victorian period. Most of the things which we recognize as being related to Christmas: Christmas trees, Christmas
cards, Christmas carols, the giving of gifts, the throwing of Christmas parties and banquets all originated or were enhanced
by the Victorians and only increased in popularity into the twentieth-century. A well-to-do lady of the Edwardian era on
Christmas Eve might be expected to begin her afternoon by visiting her friends, leaving small gifts and a personal "calling
card" (a replica of a Victorian calling card appears at the top of the page) with the lady of the house, perhaps accepting
tea and cake during the course of her visits. She may attend or host a Christmas gala that night, with dancing, music, games,
and a fabulous supper; the party may be regaled by a group of carolers going door-to-door. Fragrant swags of greenery and
mischievously placed mistle-toe would "deck the halls" of the home. Christmas day was a time for church and family,
roaring fire-places, twinkling candles, and gifts around a spangled tree.
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Underneath the dress is a petticoat in antique-gold silk trimmed in gold lace over a padded bustle. Accessories include a
hand-bag in the same material as the dress with gold lace and green tassel, earrings, and "emerald" ring, and gold
shoes.
The doll was absolutely beautiful from the start and perfect for this design with her creamy skin, cinnamon-brown eyes
and russet lips (she is a collector's edition Barbie), so her face has not been retouched; her hair was already in an upswept
pony-tail, but was re-styled with a boil-perm.
To see other dolls in this category, click this link:
Victorian and Edwardian Designs
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