Pauline: A 1920's Flapper
Ladie Faire Doll Designs
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36th OOAK Design:

Pauline
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THE FLAPPER
by Dorothy Parker

The Playful flapper here we see,
The fairest of the fair.
She's not what Grandma used to be, --
You might say, au contraire.
Her girlish ways may make a stir,
Her manners cause a scene,
But there is no more harm in her
Than in a submarine.

She nightly knocks for many a goal
The usual dancing men.
Her speed is great, but her control
Is something else again.
All spotlights focus on her pranks.
All tongues her prowess herald.
For which she well may render thanks
To God and Scott Fitzgerald.

Her golden rule is plain enough -
Just get them young and treat them rough.

This design represents the "Flapper" style (this term was coined by F. Scott Fitzgerald). The 20's were a time of great innovation in fashion design and start of celebrity designers such as Coco Chanel. Pauline is dressed in the latest fashion, ready to go to a club to listen to Jazz and Ragtime music and dance the Charleston!

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Pauline

After the horrors of World War I and the technological and industrial advances of the turn of the century, the "Roaring Twenties" brought in great social change. For women the changes were most drastic. The stuffy, staid "little woman" of the Victorian era roared out of the quiet parlor in a fast car!

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Pauline

Pauline
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Manner of dress and appearance were the most obvious changes--they were almost the exact opposite of what had been seen as proper and womanly in the previous decades. Hair was bobbed, skirts went up to the knees showing previously scandalous amounts of stocking and the "rouged knees" sung about in "Chicago." The exaggerated hour-glass figure was replaced by an exaggerated boyish figure as corsets were replaced by less restrictive foundation garments that skimmed the body and smoothed the figure, and waistlines dropped to the hip, in what Paris designers called the "garçonne silhouette."

Pauline
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Women's behavior also changed as they did things that were once seen as improper and only suited to men: sports, driving, smoking, drinking, dancing, going out in public whether to jazz clubs, dance halls, political rallies, or speak-easies. And not all of what the "Flapper Girls" and "Jazz Babies" did were social amusements and vices--women's suffrage went through in the twenties and overall, women embarked on the road to becoming forces in society.

Pauline
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The dress is made of brilliant red satin with a sleeveless, dropped-waist bodice and an assymetrical, tulip-shaped, wrap skirt, punctuated with four pleats in front. The waist-band is a fabulous, deco-style floral ribbon.  When she arrives for the evening, she wears a fabulous beaded wrap (made of translucent red ribbon, lightly wired so it holds its shape), which can be wrapped around her bare arms or thrown casually over a shoulder, but she won't be wearing it for long--Pauline wears her red dancing shoes and is ready to cut a rug!

Pauline
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The doll used as the base of this design is the collectible "Winter in New York" Barbie. Her light blonde hair was already short, but I have trimmed and sprayed it into a more slick, short assymetrical bob. Heavier make-up with emphasis on dark eyes and red lips were popular in the '20's: the Maybelline company was founded in 1915, and mass-production allowed more women to turn make-up into an everyday accessory. This doll's eyes have been repainted to better reflect the color scheme and era of the design: they are now lovely green with gold highlights, colors also mirrored in her re-designed eye-shadow.

Pauline
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Accessories were key to this style, and Pauline demonstrates some of the popular items for a lady of fashion to have when she went out on the town. Costume jewelry and lots of it was essential, and she wears a large, "ruby" cocktail ring, an "onyx" brooch, and hand-made dangling earrings of black and gold beads with the popular extra-long necklace here made of black beads. Her festive headdress is composed of a red satin headband (which snaps in back) and a large, embossed "gold pin" a the front which holds red feathers. Finally, she carries a fan of black feathers with a red "crystal" pommel to cool herself after a night of dancing the Charleston and the Tango.

1923 Magazine
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Interested in 1920's fashion and aesthetic? Check out these movies:
From the '20's: anything with Rudolf Valentino or Louise Brooks.

Modern interpretations: The Cotton Club, A Passage to India, Enchanted April, Henry & June, Chicago.

or these authors:

F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway, Henry Miller, Anais Nin, Sinclair Lewis, Dorothy Parker